Introducing the rotary animal

The 1993-95 Mazda RX-7 is a fantastic car. Known also as the 3rd Generation RX-7 or the 'FD', this twin-turbocharged sports coupe has gained an enthusiastic following. Few cars combine such beautiful styling and high performance at this price.

However, this car requires careful maintenance to run reliably and so the mechanical condition of vehicles for sale varies widely. For that reason, the small size, and rear-wheel drive, a buyer should think carefully before putting an RX-7 into the role of a daily driver. The criteria for judging a used RX-7 are different from piston-engined sports cars and earns the attention of the second half of this review, and I included a link to a FAQ/Buyers Guide which should be required reading. I do feel compelled to state I believe this car is entirely inappropriate for young or aggressive drivers.

My review is based on my own 1994 5-speed R-2 and my test drives of the 1993.

The 1993 model was by far the largest production year. It was available in the base model (with any option available on a pick-and-choose basis), the Touring model (included power sunroof, leather seats, and other toys), and the R-1 model (with non-sliding cloth suede seats, front and rear spoiler, stiffer suspension, an additional engine oil cooler, no cruise control, and the option of a bright yellow body color). The 1993 model began selling in mid-1992, and these early models may require some recalls and have some quality issues not found in later model years. A Carfax report or a call to Mazda will show the status of the recalls on a particular vehicle, and the recalls should be immediately performed (for free) if not done already. But that said, most owners have 1993 models and would not consider them inferior to the 1994 or 1995 versions. The production run in 1993 was far larger than subsequent years, keeping the used price lower.

Mechanical

First, the engine. This is a rotary engine (aka Wankel), meaning the crankshaft is not driven by pistons, but rotating triangular blocks. At 1.3L displacement and 10psi boost, it outputs 255HP and 217ft-lb of torque. (225/190 at rear wheels) The sound of the stock engine is a little different than what you're used to hearing - it's smoother and yet more impetuous sounding than a V6 or V8. Supporting the engine at medium RPMs up to redline are two Hitachi turbochargers operating sequentially. The first turbo is configured to run alone up to 4500rpm, where the second turbo joins in to boost to redline. As a result, this engine achieves its best torque and horsepower from 3000rpm and up. Launches therefore require a little skill to avoid bogging the engine or roasting the clutch. The result is a 0-60 of 5.0s and 1/4 mile drag time of 14.0s @101mph. The top speed is in the ballpark of 150mph. Unfortunately the rotary engine is uncommon, even for most Mazda dealerships, so it pays to know the nearest rotary-specific garage and to travel to it. Gas use ranges from 12-20mpg, and high-octane fuel is _required_.

The handling of the car is outstanding - it racks up .97g's on the skidpad test on stock tires. Magazine reviewers compared it favorably to other sports cars including exotics. The curb weight of 2800lb (base model, the touring weighs about 2900lb) is much lighter than most, and it's distributed 50/50 across the front and rear wheels. Steering is very responsive but also very subject to small bumps or waviness in the road. The lightweight stock alloy wheels are 16"x8" on all corners, resulting in a mild understeer at the limits of traction. This is not a car for a beginning driver, but experienced race drivers found it could reach its limits readily on the race track. Compared to other race-setup cars, the RX-7 is actually very forgiving and makes an excellent introductory racing car.

The stock gearbox and clutch is fairly driveable, but I found that in my car shifts would grind a bit if I shifted at the loping pace I use with my Nissan Maxima. It smoothly moves into gear if you shift quickly and firmly, or if you take a split-second pause going through neutral. Watch out if a 3rd-to-5th shift grinds - that indicates a cracked 5th-gear synchro (see the buyers guide link about that).

Interior

The interior is laid out for sport driving, not touring. Seating a tall person is possible in a non-sunroof model considering the space for my thin 6'1" frame. A large person may find the contoured seats uncomfortable, in fact I find the presence of my wallet in my back pocket to be very noticeable. Because the total height of the car is 48", reaching something in your pockets can be difficult and getting in/out is not quite easy. The console puts the tachometer front and center, and the speedometer sets to the right side and is not set up for reading speed as accurately as passenger cars. The driver will notice the rear pillar is broad and makes for a bigger blind spot. The rear view mirror works fine but could be moved higher to give better front visibility. For storage there are small bins behind each seat big enough to hold a few books or some snack food. There are no cup holders. If you're a car stereo fan you'll find the manual shifter blocks most of the lower DIN panel. You may also find that rattles and squeaks appear easily because of the firm suspension and lightweight construction. Trim, handles, etc have a flexible cheap feel because of the focus on eliminating vehicle weight. The driver's side has a pocket in the door armrest, but it's fragile and awkwardly deep. Most items are probably best stored in the glove compartment or rear bins.

The trunk is very shallow, and height is restricted to 8" under the stabilizer bar that spans the rear shock towers. The panel separating the trunk from the cabin can be unlocked and removed to handle longer items such as a couple golf bags. The hatchback lifts and remains open on sturdy hydraulic struts. Under a panel in the base of the trunk is possibly the world's ugliest spare donut (colored yellow), clearly designed for light weight and maybe also to encourage the driver to not waste time getting the original fixed. All wheels have one anti-theft lugnut.

Exterior

This car, IMO, is truly beautiful. It seriously turns heads and keeps them turned. Many folks don't know what an RX-7 is and think it's new. In my part of Pennsylvania it's rarer than exotic sports cars. Even my dyed-in-wool, begrudging Corvette enthusiast friend gave compliments. Cops also notice, so keep that in mind. The headlights pop up and lay flush when off. The roof of the car has a subtle dip running from front to back along the centerline. The hood and sides are gently sculpted and the overall effect is reminiscent of European supercars. The door handles are moved up beside the window glass (but the doors require a firm effort to shut). The front chin spoiler and rear wing add a nice touch, but the front chin spoiler is easy to scrape on driveway aprons and other surfaces. Fortunately the clearance is always enough to handle speedbumps. There is no trim on the sides, which makes door dings and other outside abuse more damaging. The paint on the early 1993 models is notorious for cracking or peeling, so much so that Mazda repainted some under warranty. Each car will be different in this regard and it deserves attention as you shop.

Maintenance and Reliability

Now, on to the things a buyer and owner need to know about this car. You must keep up with scheduled maintenance - or you'll be shopping for a new motor.

First, a rotary engine cannot tolerate, without exception, overheating or running lean. Lean conditions can cause detonation (pinging) which will shatter the apex seals on the rotors. Unmodified cars typically don't this problem, but any car with a few modifications introduces this concern. Damage to apex seals not only kills the performance of the engine, but the pieces chew up other internal parts, kicking the repair bill up higher. Fuel filter replacement, quality high-octane gasoline, and keeping the gas tank above 1/4 full are vital to avoiding this death. The temperature gauge should never move above horizontal, and extra coolant or distilled water should be kept in the car for immediate response to the 'Add Coolant' light should it light up.

It is very common to find RX-7s for sale with a bad engine. Rotary engines need rebuilds when any of the internal seals fail. The engine will usually run but at reduced performance and producing smoke - and this is sometimes not obvious to a new buyer. The buyers guide discusses the signs of a good start and warmup and also the compression test for measuring engine health. An engine rebuild will fix things and is a common procedure, but should be done by a competent rotary shop to the tune of $2000-5000. Once rebuilt properly, the engine is usually in fine shape, but too many buyers unwittingly purchase a car with a bad motor and can't handle the bill. Many knowledgeable buyers will buy an RX-7 with a bad engine for a reduced price and immediately have it rebuilt.

The engine is a hot little beast with a 'rats nest' of vacuum lines and hoses controlling the turbochargers and cooling system. Coolant levels must be maintained and oil changes should never wait longer than 2500 miles. Changing out the vacuum lines and coolant hoses are important to improving the car's reliability. The engine compartment is cramped, and working on this car is not for the impatient.

Proper warm-up and cool-down are vital to maintaining the engine - at least 5min before driving hard enough to push the turbos, and 2min of easy driving or idle after the turbos were last running. The turbo housing can get red-hot during hard operation, so the easy cooldown drive is required to circulate oil and coolant through the turbos. Verify the boost pattern as described in the buyer's guides - this will ensure both turbos are working as intended and providing full power.

There are several aftermarket modifications that can make the RX-7 a more reliable and more powerful car. Buying a used vehicle with the right modifications can be an indication of better maintenance and reliability. There are, of course, modifications that increase the engine's power and shorten its life. It's not as simple as other cars where 'chipping' it yields great results, so beware buying a modified car. Also be certain that the car will pass your state's emissions checks. See the buyers guide for details.

The current RX-7 Buyers' Guide
www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/buyaused.htm
- required reading for any prospective buyer

Scuderia Ciriani
www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7
- DIY how-to articles, general information

The RX-7 Club Forum
www.rx7club.com
- for information on modifications, maintenance, and discussion - read the 3rd gen FAQ and search through the forum archives for great info