A classic jack of all trades and master of none

The Black & Decker TRO390 bears the name “Classic”, a designation borne by many other toaster ovens from this well-known manufacturer. The “classic” part of this model lies in its basic architecture –essentially the same simple design that Black & Decker has cranked out for years. Free of bells and whistles, this device aims simply to toast, bake and broil. No convection, no enormous capacity – just the essentials.

For me, essentials count for a lot. Anything I can’t do with a toaster oven, I’ll do with my regular oven. And because I have a limited amount of counter space (and an even more limited taste for appliance clutter), I’ve chosen to dispense with microwaves and toasters. A single versatile appliance capable of doing many jobs suits my needs perfectly.

Design

The TRO390 comes in a variety of finishes. I chose white, which blends unobtrusively with my mostly light colored kitchen. The footprint of the oven saves space, measuring 16 by 10 by 8 1/2 high, while inside it will hold the stated 4 slices of toast on its wire rack. For some reason, the included baking pan doesn’t quite span the entire width of the oven cavity, yet it still accommodates all the items I cook or reheat.

Performance

Like most toaster ovens, this one represents a compromise. You could call it a “classic” jack-of-all-trades and master-of-none. For simple tasks, such as warming rolls or reheating leftovers, the TRO390 performs adequately. For more ambitious jobs, it can’t compare to a regular oven or a microwave. Baking potatoes takes even longer than a conventional oven and the resulting potato doesn’t have the same flaky texture. Frozen things, such as fish sticks and French fries, come out okay but they require about 20 percent more time than called for by the package directions.

Toasting reveals this model’s biggest weakness. If you like toast really dark – meaning nearly blackened – you had best look elsewhere. The medium setting produces lightly browned toast only if you’re starting with white bread at room temperature. Frozen waffles and bagels straight from the fridge come out hot but not very crisp. Cranking the dial to its maximum browns things mostly around the edges and none too speedily: The full toast cycle takes almost five minutes.

The three control knobs work easily enough, although when toasting you must remember to first set the temperature dial to an oddly labeled position called “Toast On/Bake Off”. The somewhat noisy, tick-tock timer has a maximum setting of 15 minutes, although a separate position allows you to keep the oven on indefinitely.

As you would expect, the top and sides of this unit get quite hot, but no more so than with most similar appliances. The door’s handle stays reasonably cool as long as you grip the outermost portion of it.

Quality

My previous toaster oven – also a Black & Decker – dated back to 1988, a lifespan rarely achieved by most small appliances. I doubt that this TRO390 will equal that record. Its glass door flops down unceremoniously, the handle hitting the countertop with a thud. It could use some sort of damping to slow its opening. The flimsy crumb tray requires a firm tug to open and you must close it carefully in order to avoid bending it.

Otherwise, the front panel and control knobs have a glossy finish, with the whole appliance making a good first impression. The unit also has an unusually substantial power cord.

Will you warm up to this toaster oven?

If you don’t like things blackened (I don’t), the Black & Decker TRO390 will serve you well. If you can find it on sale or with a hefty rebate (as I did), it represents a good value. In my case, Linens ‘N Things offered a $20 rebate off their regular $29.99 price. Such a deal! Otherwise, I’d suggest that you shop around for other models – especially if you like dark toast.


Update: This normally thorough reviewer didn't read the title of this item's review form until now: This Black & Decker TRO390 Toaster oven actually does not have convection cooking. The only B & D model with convection in their current website is the Model CTO6200, a larger and pricer model.

ANOTHER update: The prediction made earlier ("My previous toaster oven – also a Black & Decker – dated back to 1988, a lifespan rarely achieved by most small appliances. I doubt that this TRO390 will equal that record") proved prophetic...although much sooner than I had expected. After only three weeks of use, this little jewel of an appliance started making a loud buzzing sound during the toast cycle. Into the box and back to Linens 'N Things it went!

After sifting through Epinions and looking carefully at what's in the stores, I have changed my tune. In this price range, I now think you're better off with a plain old toaster. That's what now occupies my kitchen counter (a Cuisinart). Review to follow soon...stay tuned!